I’m working at full speed here, after two weeks of forced absence (I’m still blaming you, stupid Fastweb). his is our third and last post from MFW and then my favorite part begins, Paris in its full glory. Milan has always been considered the glamour part of Fashion Week. Well-known and almost historic designers, not much innovation, but a lot of glitz. Making it in Milan as a newcomer is almost impossible, the line-up is already defined and there is not much room for that to change (that is until Donatella and Roberto decide to retire to their seaside mansions ). Agreeing with legendary Suzy Menkes, when the rest of the fashion world is in the middle of a digital revolution, you really need to step away from your traditional Italian style and step your the game. In a city where talent flows as a river does, that shouldn’t be a problem. Just give the young and unknown a chance.
EMILIO PUCCI
China was one of the major trends this Fall, Jason Wu and Proenza Schouler both did it and made it look damn good. For Spring 2013, Peter Dundas took us there again, but it wasn’t like Wu’s dynasty soldiers or PS’s chic Samurai. It was the year of the dragon, the sexy dragon that is. We are used to Pucci’s sensual ways, always in the form of bohemian styles and colorful prints, cut-outs and sheer panels. This year, they were all present but in a more subtle way. The color palette was unexpected: white, mint, cobalt, red and black. The fabrics were shiny and soft and the embroideries nothing but exquisite.
The show started out with white and beautifully layered ensembles. The sheerness was evident but at the same time so delicate and beautiful. That’s where we spotted the first oversize bomber, a garment so fresh and so crisp, ideal for Spring (here’s hoping that Zara will make a bunch of these, so I can buy’em all). Dundas rendition of the kimono was sexy and rad at the same time (God, this man really has some serious swag going on). Underneath his seasonal outerwear (my highlight of his collection), signature Pucci was all over the place: sheer inserts, skintight shapes, long and sexy dresses and printed silks. Accessories? It was all about the straps.
MARNI
A common mortal may not even realize Marni and its fabulousness has been around for ages. For a style savant, Marni’s show is one of the highlights of the whole fashion month. Best-known for the pretty, geometric prints and nonchalant shapes, this season it was all about volume and structure. The show started out with a series of Marni printed looks, then there was the leather touch, then it went minimal with a pinch of Jacquard. The color palette was vast and the tailoring was right on point. As for her version of the peplum, dramatic and bold but that didn’t make it less beautiful. For the shoes, it’s ankle-strap also for Consuelo Castiglioni. We better start lunging and getting those pins ankle-strap ready.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
When it comes to Cavalli shows, I breathe in, breathe out and brace myself for some wild and over-the-top fashion. May I say that his Spring 2013 show (the first half at least), it was a candy feast to the eye. We are used to leather overdose and fringe and leopard print galore, this time it was not (thankfully). It was a wild and romantic ride: lace slipdresses, silk maxi ones with lovely prints, perforated leather paired up with feminine, eyelet blouses and the printed peachy suit combo? Whether you wear the total look or each piece as a separate, it was pure poetry.
The last half of the show, was more for Cavalli’s panther women (his regular clientele). Black lace, black leather, laced-up garments, feathers and leopard, plunging necklines and sheer, cheek-baring dresses. The shoes were barely there sandals (as if sexy wasn’t sexy enough). Overall, a pleasant surprise! Hey Roberto, we kinda love this softer side of you, keep it up!
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ
Delightful would be an understatement… For Spring 2013, it was all about the tailoring and the shapes, hence the minimal vibe: from the color palette (white, beige and black with a touch of creamy snakeskin) to the choice of shoes (double strap, barely-there sandals). The hems were short enough, the necklines were plunging and lines were as clean as clean can get. Folded bottoms, another one of the strongest trends for the next season, were also present (that python skirt has to be mine) and so were smart, textured shorts. Waist belts played a really important part and accentuated beautifully the already chic silhouettes.
VERSACE
When the first look cam out, all I could think was, I can really see myself in that little number and if the entire collection keeps on going like this, it’s bound to be a hit. Sadly, the collection didn’t keep the rhythm I hoped. THE GOOD: The first looks, black with flesh-colored lace inserts, were my favorite part of the show: easy, sexy and new. The adorned skinny trousers, very cool, Marant way cool. The black gladiator pumps (I want to be wearing those on Spring, with my tanned legs and pair of mini shorts). The metallic fringe dress and the blue gown with the boob slit.
THE BAD: The dip-dye was not visually appealing. Some of the details did not seem part of the dresses, they looked like bad appliques. The metallic gladiators were a little Ice T’s Coco for me. The lace-up mini skirt is so “Courtney Does the Country Bar”, not a good look on anyone, not even Courtney.
LOOK OF THE DAY
Pastels for Fall? A difficult task but one that can easily be achieved with a creamy, mohair vest. Add some mint pants and a graphic sweatshirt underneath. The dressy touch? Delicate, salmon pumps and a metallic bag.
- Mohair vest, River Island
- Tiger sweatshirt, Zara
- Mint pants, Zara
- Salmon pumps, Gianvito Rossi
- Metallic satchel, J. Crew
- Pink beaded bracelet, Nelly.com
- Spike silver bracelet, ASOS
- Rhinestone bracelet, J. Crew
- Cat ring, Modcloth
- Rose Abstrait nail polish, YSL
For all the details on today’s look, go to Fashiolista
It’s a wrap for MFW, four more PFW posts to go and we are back to normal. Winter is quickly approaching, you know what that means right? After Winter comes Spring. Yeah, in a about 6 months….
Sweet kisses…
Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, Zara, My Theresa, ysl, Polyvore, River Island
All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site
Sweet'n'Raw 