Milan’s Finest Spring 2014

The Fashion Month is officially over and we got to see lots of new styles and dazzling collections from NYC, London, Milan and Paris. My last post was all about the trends we got to see in the Italian fashion capital and now it’s time for me to reveal my top 5 shows. As I have told you before, Milan has the shortest line-up and the one where almost every name is well-known and has been around for ages, Italian powerhouses such as Versace, Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana and the star of them all, Miuccia Prada. For Spring 2014, they presented us with a real variety show: from Alberta Ferretti’s folk florals and Prada’s artistic sporstwear to Cavalli’s shiny glamour. Ready to begin?

Alberta Ferretti is well-known for her sultry and ethereal gowns, her siren vibe and peaceful colors. For Spring 2014, she really changed things up. The peaceful shades turned into bright, bold and happy hues. Her delicate embellishments turned beautiful floral embroidery. Her inspiration was obvious: the ribbons, the flowers, the tiers, the lightweight fabric, the cheery mood and the youthfulness can only mean one thing: the seaside, the south of Italy. The result was beautiful and wearable, a Summer dream. With this collection, I’m sure Mrs. Ferretti has attracted a new client group, a younger one.

Roberto Cavalli is well-known for his wild aesthetics. In every collection there is animal print present and some kind of unique boho glam. For the Spring 2014 collection, Mr. Cavalli presented a colelction in which craftsmanship and detail were spot-on. His color palette was almost mute (neutrals, pale pinks and greens) but played beautifully with the textures and prints. There were many jacket-shirt-pants combos, with similar shape but each with its own twist. There were kaftans, there were also clingy and second-skin dresses. There was something for everyone.

Marni is always on my list and this Season was no exception. Consuelo Castiglioni always manages to make everything so effortless and even though I’m not really a fan of the term, chic definitely applies here. She presented a collection where sportswear separates had the most important role. The stunning show opener was a pair of perfectly tailored, wide-legged trousers paired up with a solid top, simple, elegant and wearable. Then Marni’s signature prints appeared, followed by what was the most pleasant surprise of them all, textured flowers all over the place.

When it comes to Prada, it’s not about how wearable it is or how aesthetically pretty it is. When it comet to Prada, it’s all about the story behind Miuccia’s complex collections and ideas. Each season, it’s like getting a glimpse whatever was going on in the designer’s head at the time when the show was conceived. For Spring 2014, art met sportswear in such a unique way. Street art inspired prints could be found in the clothing and paired-up with tube socks (I’m certain that I will be wearing them next season) and ladylike bags (Miuccia Prada is a woman of contrasts). Strong women, strong colors, strong clothes, it was a powerful, powerful show.

Decadent, lavish, rich, Dolce & Gabbana’s eternal and faultless formula. The Italian duo have been having a winning streak. for some seasons now. Remember that all-white collection with the Broderie Anglaise from three years ago? That’s when it all started. They love to focus in their Italian roots, in the southern sirens, in what’s sensual, subtle, sultry. Air thin dresses with 3D flowers grazed the runway, along with print of ancient ruins (who new ruins could look good in a shift dress). The most used element of the show were those coins, coin belts, coin earrings, coin patterns, coin embellishments. The collection was dreamy, if this is what “more is more” means, get me some D&G, ASAP!

That’s a wrap for Milan! Paris trends and shows up next! Don’t miss it!

 

Sweet kisses…

Image sources: style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

 

NY’s FINEST SPRING 2014, part 2

Yeah, I know what some of you are thinking. You might be thinking that this is not a race, that everyone’s a winner. Well, that doesn’t really happen when it comes to fashion. When it comes to Fashion Week, some finish last, some finish first. That’s why every season I like to choose my top 10. Yesterday we started our countdown, the spots from 10 – 6 have already been filled. Now it’s time to reach the top of this little chart of mine, the five best shows (in my opinion) from what was a fabulous Fashion Week in New York. Are you ready to discover my picks? Keep on reading!

Lázaro Hernandez and Jack McCoullough can do no wrong. Their collections always rank really high, their shows have always so much buzz around them and there are many reasons why that keeps happening. But the main one, their clothes are always exquisite. For Spring 2014, with a neutral color palette and some hints of shimmer, they presented a collection packed with beautiful tailoring and craftsmanship. And no we are not talking hand-embroidery or embellishments, we are talking construction. From coats to evening dresses, it was all so effortless and chic at the same time!

Jason Wu had been following a patter until now, that chic goes bondage theme was a regular in his runway shows. For Spring 2014, he went all soft and glam on us. And guess what? We kind of love it! The color palette was all about powdery shades and pastels (touch of navy and black here and there). The shimmery fabrics played the most important role of the collection, paired up against slouchy coats and loose midi skirts. The slip was everywhere, from those sultry sparkly numbers to sheer, crisp white ones. It was different drom what we’ve always seen from him, but it still had Jason Wu written all over.

Oh boy, this was a beautiful surprise and a beautiful collection! The most important thing, it was so wearable and so likeable and it had that retro feel that everybody loves. The structured garments (blazers and trench coats) worked perfectly with those leaf-printed, breezy dresses. And while the color palette was a little bit on the earthy side (I’m not that fond of that range), I couldn’t care less, I fell in love. The highlights? The pin-up bikini, the short suits and short combos, that dress with the thigh-high slit and plunging neckline (it would’ve been too much, but it somehow worked) and the platforms (simple platforms, but platforms ever girl needs inside her closet).

I’m always drawn to peachy colors and meticulous garments and that’s exactly what J.Mendel gave me for their Spring 2014 collection. Ever since that all-white Winter collection, I’ve been keeping an eye on this brand and I’m not disappointed at all. This collection was all about the short, short hem (thank God someone out there is still thinking about legs, with all the midi and 3/4 skirts we have been seeing) the pastels and the details (even the simplest of dresses had a little special something). We got to see short combos, skirt combos, pleated and ruffled hems, embellishments and beautiful prints and shoes. Those shoes, those shoes were even better than Sophia Webster’s range for J. Crew. Those shoes were even better than Delpozo’s bow sandals. I have to get me some J. Mendel heels next Spring, I really have to.

And last but definitely not least, the top of the list. With an effortlessly sexy collection, one of my favorite NYFW designers, Mr. Joseph Altuzarra. The slits on his skirts went as high as a slit can get. The layering and the styling was spot on. The collection was all about separates coming together and variations. He understands that there has to be something for everyone in a collection. While some of his sexy skirts were paired up with silk button downs, tank tops and long sleeve t-shirts were also an option. The highlight? The metallic fabric he used on some of the skirts and lightweight jackets. He gets the first place not only because it was all so wearable, but because it was original and beyond desirable!

That’s a wrap! We are moving on to LFW Trends and best shows. Are you ready for more Spring 2014? Don’t worry, I’m on it!

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis

Image sources: style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

NY’s FINEST SPRING 2014 part 1

They were the cream of the crop and the best of the bunch. NYFW has so much to offer each season, and between the new talent, the regulars and the stars, it’s always hard to choose my top 10. This year though, it was kind of a no-brainer. I had expectations about some shows and I definitely wasn’t expecting to get that pleasant surprise from so many others. There were lots of trends and styles, as you might have seen in my previous post. I chose my top shows based on color combos (you know I’m completely biased when presented with a pastel color palette), wearability, originality and  visual impact. So here for you today, the first part of my top 10 list from the NYFW Spring 2014 runways.

First time Honor makes it on to my list and after this six snaps from the runway, you have to understand the reason. I am traditional when it comes to the seasons, I love when a Spring collection feels like Spring and that’s exactly the vibe I got from this catwalk. That air of vintage romance, the gowns filled with details and dramatic ruffles, the smart beautiful use of lace, sheer in all the right places and dressy shorts, I’m a sucker for dressy shorts. The color palette was soft, the prints were powerful but played beautifully with the shades and everything looked picture perfect with a pair of pointy flats. Overall, a delightful collection with a touch of retro.

I’ve been a fan for a couple of seasons now but it’s the first time this young designer presents on a runway, rather than on a presentation. His collection was a clash between the pretty and the rough. Pastels (lavender, mint, vanilla) and white were paired against gray shades and the always resourceful, black. Midi skirts in lace and silk and delicate knits were paired up against candy-colored biker jackets (one of the trends I presented to you yesterday). And the footwear…. Those PVC, toe-capped ankle boots deserve standing ovation, at least from me!

You may agree with me or not. Fact is, I am completely biased when it comes to J.Crew. After the Lyons takeover, the brand I used to dub a dull and boring, has become a personal favorite. In front of my eyes, J.Crew can do no wrong! For Spring 2014, J.Crew went to Maui. Surfer chic is back but not in that literal “Tommy Hilfiger with the neoprene and zippers” kind of way. This was more subtle and with the kind of swag we always get from this brand’s flawless styling. The collection featured mostly trousers: printed, with textures, wide, tapered. The t-shirt had a strong presence in the collection and the cherry on top of the cake? Sophia Webster designed the shoes! I already have a piggy bank with the following label: “Sophia Webster for J.Crew polka dot pumps”.

First time ever also for Delpozo on my list. He got my attention last Fall, but he definitely got my heart racing this season. Romance doesn’t even begin to cover it! It was a beautiful display of fashion, of tailoring, a breathtaking game of volumes and lengths. The color palette went from sugary shades to bolder ones. There were textures involved, prints as well and of course, beautiful embellishments. The garden-like runway played perfectly against the Spanish designer’s elaborate garments. It could’ve turned out to be a little costumey, but it had just the perfect amonut of drama. And that metallic bow sandal? I don’t know how I will manage to get that inside my closet, but I will. Mark my words!

After a few seasons of the same (fruity and flowery prints, pleats, wide belts), I was starting to feel a little bored with Stacy Bendet’s aesthetics. After the Spring 2014 collection, she really managed to give her audience a fresh breath of air. With a creamy and old school glamour setting, the clothes came alive even if most of the color palette was as neutral as the background. The mint show-opener was a good as a show-opener can get (cropped top with a volume, full skirt? yes please). The thigh-high ivory boots with the toe-cap, a dream come true. The use of lace, the pairings, the styling, it was all so beautiful, all so meticulous but at the same time, all so clean. That’s what I call to hit the ball out of the ballpark!

That was the first part of my top 10 list. Tomorrow I will reveal the first five spots so stay tuned! In the meantime, let’s enjoy Milan Fashio Week (even if for the first time in five years, I’m not there to witness it).

Sweet kisses…

lustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis

Image sources: style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

Milan’s Finest

Milan’s runway line-up is noticeably smaller than the one in Paris, London or New York. The names are usually well-known, only a few new designers get to show their stuff (that’s something that should change) and choosing the best from all the rest is relatively easy. One thing about the city that I have loved and lived for four years is that it needs to open up to what’s new: new talents, new technologies, new shapes, new horizons. If Milan wants to stay current and interesting, they need to step up their game. Anyway, back to what concerns us today. I’ve chosen the five shows I liked the most. Let’s see if you agree with me.

This eccentric duo may not explore that much when it comes to shapes and silhouettes, what they are really good at is their beautiful craftsmanship. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been paying homage to the Sicilian woman for as long as one can remember. For their Fall 2013 collection, it was all so lavish, rich and extravagant as it usually is. The inspiration was clear, royal and religious. They Italians recreated the mosaics found in the Byzantine cathedral of Monreale. Their decadent prints appeared on a series of shift dresses, mid-length skirts and tailored coats. They paired them up with lace garments, lace is one of their specialties. As for accessories, regal crowns, heavy and shiny chandelier earrings, and golden shoes, the kind of golden that’s definitely fit for a Queen.

Marni remains as one of Milan’s favorites (along with Bottega Veneta and Prada). Renzo Rosso recently acquired stakes from the Italian brand. For the Fall 2013 show, the setting was dark and simple, bare trees and a runway. It was different from what we are used to seeing from Consuelo Castiglioni, it was moodier, it was more somber, more minimal but equally fabulous. In Milan, fur has become the ultimate staple and Marni went with that flow (even if I personally support the use of faux). From the colorful stoles at the beginning to the full, furry coat at the nearly end, it was definitely the strongest trend on the runway. But not the only one: wool and tweed were all over the clothes, masculine and oversize silhouettes as well. Pleats and sheer inserts played a major role, one that made the collection a little softer, a little more feminine, a little more pretty.

It’s no a surprise that Bottega made it on to this list, Thomas Maier always knows what he is doing and that he is doing it right. For Fall 2013, it was retro, it was ladylike, seriously it doesn’t get more ladylike than that. Each and everyone of the creations oozed elegance, oozed confidence, oozed sexiness without having to do some skin-flashing. The color palette was dark: navy and black mixed up with a rich red and a pretty darn pretty mustard. The length was the same in every look: midi. The dress coat was the highlight of the show, so were the a-line skirts and the skirt suits. The beauty really made and statement that complemented Maier’s garments: big, wavy hairstyles, strong lips and even stronger brows.

Prada is always number one, the show-stealer, the had-turner. This year, Miuccia came in second. Not because her collection wasn’t good enough, but because someone else did better. It was darker than usual (no pink hot wheels, no red Asian comic flowers, no pretty bananas), but still pretty and still Prada-like. Following one of the season’s strongest trends, the off-shoulder, Signora Prada sent a bunch of tailored dresses and belted coats down the runway. Her prints and textures ranged from bold and wide vertical stripes, powder pretty, checkered tweeds and knitwear. The belt played a major role on the catwalk and as always, the footwear was a complete hit.

Massimilano Giornetti has done wonders with Salvatore Ferragamo, the Italian family should be proud and happy with the results. For this collection, the color palette was essential: black and navy with some hits of cream.
The tailoring, the construction, or better yet, deconstruction were spot on. The styling and layering were ven more beautiful, so was each garment separately: double-breasted pieces, cropped coats, turtlenecks, little dresses and more. The vibe and the atmosphere was sexy enough, so was the footwear. I’d love for my feet to freeze in those harness sandals next Winter!

That’s a wrap ladies and gentleman! We are done with Milan now moving on to Paris (I promise to finish the coverage before March ends).

Sweet kisses…

Image sources:  Style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

LONDON’S FINEST, part 2

Good morning, my sweet readers! And we are down to the top four from what was a marvelous Fashion Week. It’s always so hard to pick my favorite shows from London, there’s just so much talent to choose from. For this season, my top four have very different reasons. For innovation and visual impact, Christopher Kane. For prints that are mere works of art, Peter Pilotto. For wearable chic, Burberry Prorsum. And number one, because each and every one of her looks took my breath away, Emilia Wickstead. Let’s start reviewing!

Christopher Kane has definitely left the rookie department in London. With each show, he gets closer and closer to becoming the ultimate star (think Proenza Schouler in New York). His always inventive and dramatic collections always have a positive impact among the fashion people of the world. For his Fall 2013, it was all about the details and the craftsmanship. Each piece was so elaborate, so meticulous and so painfully beautiful. Against a glossy and vivid ref runway, Kane’s creations seemed to pop even more with that kind of setting. Textures, volume and structure were all over, from the complex patterns to the breathtaking floral appliques. It was a beautiful show, beautiful is the only word to describe it.

You better watch your back and step up that game, Mary K. Peter Pilotto just keeps getting better and better with their digital prints and their complex creations. They are developing a signature style that could be recognized from miles away. For their Fall 2013 collection, they were inspired by the Spanish Golden Age. They accompanied their colorful prints with sharp tailoring. From the separates to the form fitting dresses, it was all so perfect and in place. Their creations were all paired up with simple, classic, patent Ofxord shoes.

Since Christopher Bailey took over, Burberry has become a favorite. The man sure does know how to please a crowd. Over the years, he has reinvented the trench (Burberry’s trademark) in the most unexpected ways. Last Spring’s metallic shower was not gonna be easy to outdo, he knew that and that’s why he pulled through. It was lovely, it was bold but at the same time wearable (expect Zara to copy those little hearts, here’s hopin’). The color palette was simple, the prints and textures were not. Rubber-like pencil skirts, trench coats in different materials (the half leopard half camel is driving me nuts), tight skirts paired with lovely knits (doesn’t get more ladylike than this) and flats, yes, all the shoes were flat. The highlight? The little hearts, I can’t help it, I’m obsessed.

And finally, the number one show for me. This was a no-brainer, I knew as soon as I saw this collection for the first time. It’s not only about the beautiful use of powder pink (yes, I am a sucker fro pale shades of pink), it’s about the retro feel, the delicate silhouettes, the accessories, the tartan gone cute, the air of romance. It’s not as complex as Christopher Kane’s show, it’s doesn’t have the powerful prints from Peter Pilotto. But that’s the beauty of it, it doesn’t need to pull all the stops to take you breath away. The accessories? Pumps, ankle-straps and luggage bags, gorgeous luggage bags. The highlight? The pearl embellished pink dresses, I told ya, I’m a sucker for pink and pretty.

That’s a wrap! We are now moving on to MFW, then Paris and the we are done! Keep checking back for more Fall 2013 coverage.

Sweet kisses…

Image sources:  Style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

London’s Finest, part 1

Paris Fashion Week is about to end and with it, what has been a wonderful Fashion month. As promised, I’m trying to keep up with my posts and to give you the best coverage I can. This is the second post about LFW. I’ve already given you the trends, it’s time to review the best shows of the bunch. London is always a pleasant surprise, new talent, new designers, new trends, new everything. I  have chosen eight runways, four for today and the top four for tomorrow. Are you ready to rumble, London style?

She is part of the brilliant and really talented wave of new designers based in London. With each show, she keeps on growing and she keeps on getting better and better. For her Fall 2013 collection, she decided to open up with a series of powerful pink numbers, the kind of pink that’s bound to get some heads turning your way. After the pink came the black, the mellow yellow and of course, more black. Her silhouettes were sharp and structured, her details were meticulous and precise, but more importantly, her clothes were fun and whimsical. She focused on the textures: faux fur, patent leather, tweed and even cotton.

I’ve always considered myself a Vivienne Westwood fan, not only because of her clothes but because I just love her whole persona. After her Red Label Fall 2013 show, even more so. Shapes had a retro feel to them and the colors were as bold as the sexy silhouettes. She mixed electric zebra stripes with tartan and stripes. She paired those fancy colored tights with metallic heels and cobalt pumps. Every model sported wild doll makeup that clashed beautifully with Dame Westwood’s clothes. Overall, it was fun, it was eye-catching, it was pure Westwood.

Mulberry never disappoints, the clothes are always wearable, trendy and pretty darn cute. For this season, Emma Hill took plaid to a whole new lever, gorgeous one. The color palette was perfect for Fall: burgundy, navy and olive green played beautifully with cream and salmon (I’m still drooling over the salmon coat and the burgundy trousers). As for the shapes, knits were oversize, pants were cropped, shoulders were supersized and the layering was spot on. As usual, the cute poodle made it on to the runway and the bags were a big part of the show. The highlight? The all-leather combos, especially the green one.

What’s not to love about Giles Deacon’s theatrical ways. His clothes are always dramatic, they always tell a story. For Fall 2013, Giles dreamy presentation went from light to dark. He has Kristen McMenamy as his show opener, in a floor-length, white silk gown with oversize sleeves. Then came the metallic details, oh so decadent, oh so goth! The textures and prints clashed beautifully with each other: silks and laces, laser-cut leather. Even though wearable is not really in the menu when it comes to Giles, seeing his works of art on the runway is always a pleasure. Too bad the award season is now over, that golden leaves dress would’ve been a hit at the red carpet!

What was your favorite show from London? Drop me a line! Wanna discover what were my top 4 shows? Check back tomorrow!

Sweet kisses…

Image sources:  Style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

 

NY’s FINEST, part 2

It’s MFW day 2, and unlucky us, we woke up this morning to a storm, followed by some light snow. By the time the clock hits 4:00 pm, we will be covered in it. It’s the last post about NYFW, and then we are moving on to the LFW trends! It’s the final countdown, the five shows that made it on to the top: the ringmaster, the prodigy, the surprise, the dynamic duo and even bigger surprise. Are you ready to discover them? Keep on reading!

All eyes were on his show on this edition of NYFW. After all, he is the new Creative Director of Balenciaga, his debut for the French brand is scheduled for Feb. 28. It will be an intimate affair, only a chosen few will get to witness it (Salma, you bitch!). Back to his namesake, leave it to Mr.Wang to completely reinvent the coat. With a basic color palette (black, grey and white), he combined textures and textiles (shiny leather and wool, silk and fur, leather and fur), he draped, he folded and he killed it. The fun detail? Boxing fur gloves and sweater-covered shoes! I may be needing those next Winter. Overall, this was a sartorial sneak peek of what we may be seeing on Balenciaga next week. Is he gonna be able to fill Ghesquiere’s gigantic shoes?

I bet you didn’t expect this one, right? With Jenna Lyons on the steering wheel, J. Crew has really been stepping up its game. The Fall 2013 collection was a celebration of all that hard work, but more importantly, it really put J.Crew up there, where the big shot designers live. Every single piece of the presentation was covetable and wearable. The mash-ups were out of this world: colors, florals, herringbone, embllishments and jacquard played beautifully together. The highlight? The coats and the shoes. Those colorful ankle straps and the metallic t-bars will be everywhere next season, mark my words. To Jenna Lyons, you are simply the best!

Marc has been around for quite a while and he is the ringmaster of NYFW. He has the “big dramatic show” syndrome, like fellow designer Karl Lagerfeld. The difference between these two? Call it age or whatever… With the seasons, Karl’s creations drown in the set (they are not as powerful as they used to be). Marc on the other side, his sets really empower his collections (they work together and they deliver). For this season, he took the concept of evening pajamas to a whole new level. The color palette was soft, but the textures and the fabric were out of this world. The show was all about shiny, almost liquid gowns, beautiful knitwear adorned with lavish, fur stoles and hotpants, lots of them. It was all paired up with retro, ankle-strap sandals.

Lázaro and Jack have accustomed us to their crazy mix of prints and beautiful embroideries. This season, we definitely were not expecting what came down the runway: Neutrals, neutrals and more neutrals. They clearly focused on construction, sartorial details and simplicity. But their simplicity is more complex than it seems: they played with volumes and layers, and they did an incredible job. The accessories (one of the main reasons why we love this duo): oversize clutches and the pointy shoes (with bows, with straps, grey, you name it). It was a clean and sophisticated collection, different from what they usually do, but equally perfect.

He has been working hard for the past seasons and this collection really shows how far he’s come. It was, without a doubt, the best show of the bunch. The construction was spot on, the colors and the textures worked to perfection, the shapes and the details were so unexpected and beautiful at the same time. Layering was flawless, just check out the first look and you’ll understand. It was effortless, it was chic, it was urban, it was the epitome of cool. I could go on and on praising him, because the truth is, I can’t stop looking at his collection. He paired motorcycle vests with simple knits, slouchy trousers and statement skirts with sweatshirts and plaid. The highlight of the show? The textured shorts and the patchwork. I give him a standing ovation, how about you?

That’s a wrap! NYFW has been reviewed and covered! What was your favorite show?

Sweet kisses..

Image sources:  Style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

NY’S FINEST part 1

NYFW is like a race among designers and like in every race, some finish first, some finish last. This year, the competition was tough: lots of great fashion, tons of innovation and genius and not that many misses. Some shows built a lot of expectation around them (we are talking about Galliano’s comeback for ODLR and first A. Wang show after being chosen as Balenciaga’s new Creative Director). Some others let the clothes and the spot on tailoring talk for themselves. Here is the first part of NY’s finest. From the 10th spot to the 6th.

It was one of the first shows or presentations in this NYFW edition and what wonderful way to start the week. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have been doing a great job a creative directors at Valentino this past seasons. With every collection, it becomes more certain, there is no one better than this duo to run the brand. The inspiration was obvious, Hansel & Gretel, folk fairy tales, craftsmanship at its best. Short hemlines, floral tiers, hand painted prints, bows, capes and embroideries were paired up with shoes that were cute as a button and delicate knee socks. It was a dream, a fairy tale dream.

I have always considered Joseph Altuzarra as part of NYFW’s Fantastic Four (he is up there with Prabal Gurung, Thakoon and Young Mr. Wang) and this season, he definitely proved why he is part of the cool group. It was a sexy enough fall for Mr. Altuzarra, one where leather, slits, sheer panels and big buttons had the leading roles. And even tough I’m a fake fur kinda gal, that white fluffy number did make a strong statement on the runway. The highlight? The architectural stitching details and the texture mix.

Not only is Oliver Theyskens the sexiest French designer on Earth (all-time sexiest will always be my Tom Ford), he is also the most talented. He doesn’t need big drama and theatrical presentations to do his thing. He knows shapes and tailoring and it shows. For this season, quilting got the Theyskens treatment and if this is quilting, I can’t wait to get quilted (yeah, I know, I used quilted three times in one sentence, I’m overexcited). His knee boots were cooler than the infamous Givenchy ones from last Fall and his trousers, well his trousers speak for themselves. Bravo, Oliver! You make simple complicated and vice versa, that’s why we love you!

Galliano and de la Renta together? When the news about this collaboration broke out, it seemed almost too good to be true. The picture perfect designer and the drama queen that is John Galliano? Yes, it happened and yes, the result was pure bliss. The shapes screamed Oscar, but the details screamed John. His influence on the runway was clear but not overpowering. The balance was great. And the hats? The hats was all Galliano, I can bet my life on that. It may be the start of something new between this two, it may have been just a way to re-introduce Galliano to the fashion world. Whatever it was, it worked!

I have a feeling he is about to take the “prodigy” crown from Alexander Wang and he deserves it. Prabal Gurung and his prints have made his show one of the most expected in NYC and he also just presented his collection for Target. The mood for  his Fall 2013 show? He took his military inspiration and glammed it up. The show opener was a hit and just the beginning of what would be an extraordinary catwalk. Harnesses, endless slits, tailored coats, precise and meticulous details and the shoes, those multi-straps are gonna be all over next season. Expect to see one or two Hollywood youngsters with his dramatic gowns on the red carpet.

That’s it for today! Don’t forget to check back tomorrow to discover the top 5!

Sweet kisses…

 

Image sources:  Style.com

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

PFW COVERAGE: Tropical Boho

Happy Sunday, my sweet readers! We are just three posts away from wrapping the whole Fashion Week Coverage, it’s taken me a while to achieve that due to some major hiccups (no wi-fi connection qualifies as major drama. I cried, I really cried my eyes out several times). Anyway, even if it’s been a month since PFW came to an end and reviews and pictures have been posted ages ago, I hope you still enjoy my reviews and the spin I put on them. Today I have some major Paris shark. To be honest, almost everyone on the French line-up qualifies as a big shot. Here they are: Nina Ricci’s sensual romance, Chalayan’s fresh avant-garde, Lanvin’s power lady and the woman of every hour, Isabel Marant. Let’s start!

NINA RICCI

Leave it to Peter Copping to sex things up, in the classiest and prettiest way possible. Nina Ricci’s shows are always beyond delightful. It has to do with the romance, with the need of inserting hints of lingerie in almost every look, with the delicate and flowy fabrics, but above all, with the elegant and ladylike vibe the designer injects into his collections. It’s dressy, it’s chic but there’s always that sensual air, the right amount of sexy. For Spring 2013. The color palette can be divided in two groups: Sexy black, dramatic red, deep navy and flirty pink for the first half. A perfect blush and the most beautiful, oyster for the second. Copping’s signature silks ans sheers were cleverly paired up with some elements of bondage (a surprising turn, but one that definitely worked): delicate harnesses and fishnet tops. The bondage trend is buzzing right now and no and part of it thanks to the 50 Shades of Shit phenomenon (as you probably have guessed, I have some major issues with those books and I refuse, really refuse to read them).

Meticulous and beautifully crafted cardigans and knits were paired up with fringed skirts, shiny, gathered ones and even a polka dot sarong (a genius move, if you ask me). Copping presented a different side of the Nina Ricci woman, always keeping her femininity and poise, he toughened and roughed her up a notch and he did it a wonderful job. The last dresses, the ones with the layers that seemed petals, were poetic, the makeup was dramatic, the shoes were barely there (that detail added more sensuality to it all). It was alluring, it was enticing, it was pure, Ricci perfection. Among my top 5 for Spring 2013? Hell yeah!

CHALAYAN

Many collections from Spring 2013 have had a Fall feeling to them. Thank God Husein Chalayan didn’t get that memo (or better yet, ignored it). The avant-garde designer presented a Spring worthy of Spring: soft colors, lively prints, fresh fabrics and Summery accessories. All the looks had two things in common: sharp tailoring and structured shapes. Both elements together may result in a too serious collection but this was definitely not the case. The volume and boxes just added more flair and fun to Chalayan’s line. His signature, color panels and sheer were present, so were some major pleat and ruffle details.The Spring cocoon coat (a garment that Miuccia Prada loves so much) made its way on to the runway and so did the most interesting and colorful peplum (pictured far right). The accessories are worth mentioning:  slink-back booties! What’s not to love?

LANVIN

During his many years as the Creative Director for Lanvin, Alber Elbaz has worked hard on building a strong identity for the brand and the kind of woman he designs for. The Spring 2013 show opened with a series of black and sharply tailored numbers: tuxedo silhouettes, cut-out dresses with racy, thigh high slits and plunging necklines. The tuxedo, a constant trend in the fashion industry, was beautifully deconstructed by Elbaz. After the penguin extravaganza, the designer sent some serious party jumpsuits on the runway and his signature ruched, tight dresses. His creations were heavily embellished with crystals, which paired up with heavy accessories (Lanvin’s forte) resulted in lavish and opulent pieces (over-the-top for the “less is more” folks, but since we come from the country of “more is more”, hello disco jumpsuit).

After the serious tuxedos and the flashy ensembles, the show finale was all about jewel-toned, cocktail dresses. But they were not your usual ruffled, peplum-ed, shape-hugging Lanvin numbers. They were boxy and strangely shaped. Not really my cup of tea, nor my favorite part of the show. Moving on to the accessories, platforms with shimmery ankle straps, bomb-looking purses and a couple of statement necklace, always a must when it comes to Lanvin shows.

ROLAND MOURET

I have a thing for Roland Mouret lately, I just can’t help but be drawn to his collections. For his Spring 2013 show, he took us back to the 80’s. But it wasn’t the 80’s as we know them (Balmain had a more literal approach to this trend), he revisited them but made them his own. Colors were solid and basic and lines and shapes we sharp. Every garment was perfectly constructed: the blazers were on point, the trousers flattering to a woman’s silhouette and the skirts were sexy enough with asymmetrical splits. Folded tops accompanied Mouret’s gorgeous tapered pants and the leather ensemble? The star of the show.

ISABEL MARANT

She is faithful to her chic and nonchalant style. She knows her shapes, hems and silhouettes. Armed with this weapons, she manages to kill it every single time. The French designer has been on top of the PFW pyramid and show, after show, it’s clear why. For Spring 2013, Marant took her Parisian babe to a more tropical but always bohemian setting. The hemlines, as usual, were short enough. The trousers? A perfect fit. The mini shift dresses had prints and embellishment details.

Hawaiian prints with floral embroideries, paisley peplums and flowy tops with laces, bejeweled denim jackets and heavy detailed skirts were among the elements that were showcased on the runway. There were also ruffles, her signature low-rise pants (I won’t die without sporting a pair of her babies, even if I’m an 80 year old gal with a droopy bottom), leather accents and bejeweled pieces. The thing about her, not only does she manage to make everything effortlessly cool, she also makes her clothes fit like a pair of decadent gloves fit the hands.  For accessories, gladiator sandals, bejeweled ones and bangles, lots of them. It’s a boho trip to the beach for Miss Marant and we can’t thank her enough for that.

LOOK OF THE DAY

Fall and Winter don’t have to be all dark and somber. A bright coat is the ultimate staple this season, it can instantly add a fun twist to any ensemble. Why not pair it with pastels and neutrals for an eye-catching result. For accessories, more color and contrast to make it even more interesting.

• Pink coat, J. Crew
• Nude jumper, Asos
• Tapered trousers, J. Crew
• Teal pumps, Gianvito Rossi
• Shoulder bag, Chloé
• Spike bracelet set, Asos
• Animal bangle, J. Crew
• Ring set, Topshop
• African Violet nail polish, Tom Ford

For all the details on today’s look, go to Fashiolista

Only two more! I swear, we are almost done! Have a lovely Sunday,

 

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis

Image sources: style.com, Zara, My Theresa, ysl, Polyvore, River Island

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

PFW COVERAGE: Raffia Couture

Finally Friday, my sweet readers! Here in Italy, we are having a long, long weekend but a blogger’s duties never stop! Here I am with the first post about PFW and the 13th from our coverage series. We are almost done, I swear. I can’t wait to wrap this up and post more fabulous trends and wintery outfits. In the meantime, Paris is always a good idea! To open up the French reviews, we have an impressive line-up (who am I kidding, all the shows from Paris are nothing but stellar). For you, this Friday, Rochas eternal romance, Balenciaga’s innovative shapes, Dries Van Noten’s beautiful mash-up, Carven’s Parisian swag and last, but not least, Balmain’s raffia couture. Are you ready to rumble?

ROCHAS

Rochas and its ethereal aesthetics have always been among my favorite from the Paris bunch. Not only because of the beautiful prints, but because I’m all about brands with a romantic vibe. For Spring 2012, it was a lavender heaven with touches of French grey, Raspberry and White. The collection had a retro chic feel to it, but there was also something sporty about it. Marco Zanini presented a large range of shapes and cuts: Double-breasted jackets intended as dresses, sheer and flowy maxi-skirts, hot pants + bralet ensembles, hourglass dresses with midi lengths. The polo shirts (biggest trend so far in the neckline department). One of the highlights? He played matchy, matchy and it worked beautifully. As for the accessories, round sunnies, head wraps and white, sock-like shoes.

BALENCIAGA

There’s no doubt that Nicolas Ghesquiere has the x-factor when it comes to innovative skills. Season after season, the designer has always had raving reviews and while Balenciaga’s shapes may not be everyone’s cup of tea, he always manages to get all heads turning his way. For Spring 2013, he may have toned down the sharpness a notch. The shapes were beautiful and architectural, but not as boxy and structured. For the first half of the show, Ghesquiere built some dramatic ruffles into skirts and dresses (hello, gorgeous peplum). Then came the volume skirts with the asymmetrical pleats. Pairing them up with simple, knitted cropped tops was beyond genius. The skin flashing matched beautifully the almost neutral color palette.

For the second part of the show, he entered the “tweed” zone with simple mini skirts and his interpretation of the ladylike jacket. For the tops, he kept it cropped and the hemlines, he kept those short and sexy enough (an unsual thing for Balenciaga). As for the finale, those meticulous, laser-cut, detailed dresses were the cherry on top of that French cake. As for the footwear, always a highlight, low-cut booties in burgundy, cream and black. The front row? Overall, lovely and easier to wear than usual.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

This collection has to be dubbed the queen of all mash-ups. Dries Van Noten really hit the ball ot of the park this Fashion Week. A collection so complex and so visually appealing at the same time: the colors, the shapes, the textures, the tailoring, a lot of fabulous things to take in on one runway show. It was grungy, but it was so damn chic. The plaid tops (in different colors and shapes) blended in to perfection with the floral prints and embellishments. There was a touch of sheer and sexy, some velvet here and there and even some ladylike, retro dresses. The best part of the show? The beautifully crafted, rosette skirts (particularly the one with the pastel shades). As for the shoes, pumps galore: metallic, printed, with laces, with cutouts, you name it!

BALMAIN

When Christophe Decarnin’s departure was announced, everyone grieved. When Olivier Rousteing was appointed Creative Director, some eyebrows were raised. Could the really young apprentice take on such a big responsibility? After this show (and last season’s runway), the answer is abso-effin’-lutely. The designer has done a wonderful job so far, keeping the cool chick vibe Decarnin built but also taking it to a whole new level. Remember the signature, fitted jacket? Olivier has turned it into a boxier and sharper one. The leg-flashing mini dresses? He has made them his own with unique textures (hello, raffia) and beautiful tailoring. He had made clear why a top costs so much, there’s just a lot of work in them, a work of art.

His references were clear: the 80’s all the way. Big shoulders, cropped tops, big, high-waist trousers, black & white stripes and leather skirts. The star of the show? The pale blue, yellow and cream woven number (that’s going to be more photographed than Prada’s striped dress from Spring 2011). The accesories were also detailed and woven, peep-toe booties, statement belts and sharp pumps. Hands down, a stunning collection. If this beautiful man (because he is not only talented, but also gorgeous) keeps doing what he is doing, Balmain will remain on top (where his teacher Christophe left it).

CARVEN

What’s not to love about Guillaume Henry’s Parisian ladies. Season after season, he delivers chic and wearable clothes that we can’t help but drool after. For his Spring 2012 show, he presented a bunch of beautifully tailored and feminine pieces. Almost every ensemble was accompanied by cute and classic collars. Some of the dresses presented chest cutouts, the tops were cropped (mini jumpers never looked so good), skirts were perforated and there was Toilè. Yes, you heard me, Toilè. Pardon my excitement, but as a serial Francophile, this is really my cup of tea. It was another French delight from Carven, thank God for Carven!

LOOK OF THE DAY

Mixing florals and leopard print is always an interesting option. For a French twist, the jumper over a dress with a volume skirt and ankle-strap shoes. For accessories, the golden treatment!

1. Leopard Jacket, DKNY
2. Floral jumper, Dolce & Gabbana
3. Black dress, MAJE
4. Black wedges, ZARA
5. Pelican bag, ALEXANDER WANG
6. Black bangle, KATE SPADE
7. Leopard bangle, J. CREW
8. Ring pack, ASOS
9. Infusion prune nail polish, LANCOME

For all the details on today’s look, go to Fashiolista.

There you go, first five from Paris are up! It’s Friday! Any fun plans for the weekend?

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis

Image sources: style.com, Zara, My Theresa, ysl, Polyvore, River Island

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site