It’s a sunny Sunday here in Milan, one of the last of the year I guess. Fall has fallen upon us and Fashion Week has come to an end (of course, I am behind with my reviews). On the bright side, we still have tons of reviews in store for you. London had a great season, it was all so new, all so spicy and all so special. Milano, you have some big shoes to fill. This is the last post and we have the last 5 shows from LFW. Are you ready to roll?
After his Spring 2012 pajama show, this designer has been buzzing more than ever. Even more with the now available collection for British retail giant, Topshop. His designs are not everyone’s cup of tea and he has a thing for duplicates (you know, same dress, three times, different colors), but that’s part of his charm and mystery. For Spring 2013, he presented us with “The Treatment Room”: A show in which he explored new shapes and silhouettes but always keeping his signature aesthetics and vibe. Frills and peplums in dresses, skirts, cropped tops and skorts (yeah, you heard me, skorts), color contrasting panels, his already regular, printed pajama ensembles and some cut-outs were among the elements he sent down the catwalk. The shoes, as strange as they seemed, they kind of rocked.
Just when you think the digital print has reached its peak, along comes Peter Pilotto and takes it to new heights. For Spring 2013, their prints became livelier than ever, they added volume and texture into the mix. The color palette was vast but always bold: fire red with cerulean, navy with greens and blues, lavender with black and cream. Frills and peplums also played a major role on the catwalk, they were perfectly built on to the print (that allowed them to play with depths and proportions). Cut-outs were also present in many of the looks, clear proof that more is more when it’s done right. The woven shoes with laces had Nicholas Kirkwood written all over and let me do a fashion forecast, they are bound to become the next big thing next season. As for the set, when you manage to have a similar print on the carpet and still manage to make your designs pop, you know you took a risk and it really payed off.
It’s always a pleasure when we get to see that designers are not afraid of having fun with their creations, when they are not afraid of entertaining their crowd (think Moschino’s perky ways and Prada’s novelty). That’s exactly one of the main reasons I am always into Holly Fulton’s collections. Her color palette went from sweet and sugary to bright and perky: lavender, vanilla, salmon, pink, sky blue. Her deco motifs, prints and embellishments had that certain California dreaming, East Coast vibe influence (Ever been to LA? Happiest and kindest people on Earth). The print and texture mash-up was spot on: stripes with geometric prints, flowers on flowers, pajama pants and graphic jackets, pleats with circles and printed panels. It was all so new, so unique and eye-catching. Each and every one of her looks was paired up with pastel colored espadrilles. Fresh? More than fresh!
I’ve never quite understood why the Middleton sisters have been dubbed style icons (the sight of their shoes makes my eyes feel like I just chopped a ton of onions). When I learned that Alice Temperley, Issa and Jenny Packham were among their favorite designers, I immediately tossed them into the “never to be reviewed” basket. Never say never, I just caught a glimpse of Temperley’s Spring 2013 collection and I actually loved it. It was all so clean, so elegant but with an air of romance. The 50’s silhouettes only made everything more feminine and more beautiful. The color palette was as visually appealing as a pricey and tasteful fondant cake (and I mean this, in a good way). She added sheer inserts to full satin skirts (a move that could’ve resulted in vulgarity, but on the runway it was more like poetry). Don’t even get me started on the prints, the lace, the embellishments and the knits. The cherry on top of the cake? The shoes were made by the one and only Charlotte Olympia. A word of advice to Alice, if Kate or the infamous Pippa are to wear one of this beauties, sell them the total look (footwear included). I’m tired of seeing this ladies ruin couture with their ghastly L.K. Bennett heels and their granny wedges.
PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
The last review from LFW and the prettiest of them all. Listen, I’m a tough crowd (not that I am Cathy Horyn, not that they even care), but I’m not that easy to please (even if I squeak at the sight of Prada shoes). Pringle of Scotland was definitely the most pleasant surprise. Every season, when browsing their collections, I would just go “eh”. This season, I really went “woah”. From the shapes and the flawless tailoring to the soft and gentle colors, it all fell right into place. The highlight of the show, the jumpers paired up with same colored, pleated, volume skirts. It all was paired up with simple courts, metallic or in different shades. It all looked so tasteful, so well put-together but with a retro edge. I think that it’s safe to say this: “Alistair Carr, Pringle of Scotland doesn’t seem to miss you one bit”.
LOOK OF THE DAY
Very ladylike, very cute and very retro, that’s what I was going for with this look. Jacquard is a major trend for Fall and will be for next Spring, so a printed and textured coat was just the thing to wear. The creamy garments allow the accessories to be more colorful without making it look like a giant cotton candy ball.
- Jacquard coat, VANESSA BRUNO
- Textured top, ROMWE
- Cream skirt, THAKOON ADDITION
- Tan skinny belt, ZARA
- Nude pumps, GIANVITO ROSSI
- Elsie salmon bag, CHLOE
- Flower ring, ASOS
- Ring trio, ASOS
- Skyline nail polish, CHANEL LE VERNIS
For all the details on today’s look, go to FASHIOLISTA
That’s it, London we will see you next February (hopefully, I’ll be there to witness that in the flesh). Moving on to Milano and the Paris. I promise to whip this babies up faster! Have a relaxing Sunday!
Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, Zara, Net-a-porter, Farfetch, Asos, Selfridges, Polyvore
All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (firstname.lastname@example.org) and images must link back to this site