Yes, you get to hold my abandonment against me all you can, but I am back to make it up to you, my sweet readers! We are almost done with our LFW round-up and then it’s Milan’s turn (we will eventually get to Paris, I promise). Today I get to review two of my all-time London favorites, Erdem and Jonathan Saunders. If we add Sass & Bide’s cool, Mulberry’s jacquard parade and Giles’ drama, your in for some serious, fabulous fashion. Let the games begin!
Through the seasons, Erdem has made flowers their ultimate trademark. You know how Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto are the masters of digital prints? When it comes to florals, Erdem is the title holder. The thing about this brand, they usually mix their prints with textures and different materials and always get a poetic result (I’m not exaggerating here, just look at the pictures from the runway). Sticking to an almost pastel color palette (the coral 3D flowers really pop over the sugary shades) for Spring 2013, Erdem even made python print look romantic and dreamy (snakeskin is almost always associated with sexy, sensual and bold).
Lively and textured florals, sheer garments, hot pants and bralets as undergarments, lace panels and inserts, heavenly ensembles, pencil skirts and cutouts were among the elements presented on the runway. For the accessories, Erdem took the t-bar heel to new heights, big and chunky platform heights and even managed to add statement necklaces to their already elaborate creations (“more is more” never looked dreamier). It all looked so romantic but with a modern and interesting twist (thank you, python). So far, let me just say this, it has been my favorite collection. Hey, I’m a sucker for flowers and pastels.
SASS & BIDE
Leave it to Sass & Bide to keep the cool and the chic together. With a simple color palette (black and ivory with a hint of orange), the duo managed to pull off that rocker glam only a few can (think Balmain). The Australian duo returned to London with THAT kind of collection, you know, the one collection in which you covet every single piece (and this comes from a girl who is not a fan of black). It was all so feminine but with that certain edge about it: feather skirted dresses with embellished tops, metallic waist belts, folds and drapes, floral and shoulder embellishments, monochromatic and layered suits (the one in the middle photo was my favorite from the show). The cherry on top of the cake, the sequin splash on some of the looks. Di-vine!
Yes, the man always knows how to do it. The man always knows how to stun and amaze. Jonathan Saunders was among the best collections last Spring 2012 (I still dream of his take on pastels and his dreamy prints) and his A/W 2012 didn’t fall far from the tree of fabulousness. With an escalading color palette (neutrals to pastels, pastels to brights), the designer presented a visually appealing game of textures for his Spring 2013 show. His technicolor pieces were paired up with pencil skirts, cropped tops and bikini ones (the midriff trend is so on that we better start crunching at the gym), high-waisted, tailored trousers, shift dresses, blazers and bombers.
Following the stripe trend that started in New York with Marc Jacobs, he had his own and very different take: iridiscent lines. He put them almost everywhere, from jackets and dresses to tiny, little t-shirts. The show ended with a beautiful sequence of sequins. The shoes, cut-out sandals in white, snakeskin and black. The highlight of the show: the blue dress with the silk and sheer panels (I have to admit I just saw myself wearing that, on a warm Spring afternoon, sipping champagne on a terrace with a sea view. Bloody hell, I’m so not ready for Winter).
The drama and the theatrical craftmanship that this man usually presents is always mind-blowing. May I just say that his Spring 2013 collection was no exception.Deacon’s creations always fill the air with fantasy and there is always a story behind. From laser cut pieces to crystal embellishments, each and every one of his looks were show-stopping, head-turning, breath-taking works of art. His fairy tale show had the most interesting twist, he paired up his dramatic garments with colorful shoes and bright lipstick puckers.
The definition of stunning this LFW? The Mulberry Spring 2013 show. Everything form the 70’s silhouettes and the prints has a certain 70’s vibe to it. The color palette went form an unexpected mustard, a lovely mint shade and a powdery peach to eggshell, navy and black. The shapes for the outerwear were all so different but all so perfect at the same time: boxy and long biker jackets, textured tuxedo blazers, tailored short jackets and long, beautiful coats (the minty one is the one that made my knees go weak).
The fist half of the show definitely had that garden air, it only made it lovelier to the eyes. The strong and textured jacquards were layered over delicate silk garments. The accessories were do complex that it was hard not to love them: crisscross sandals in different hues and lovely booties… wait for it… there was a mint pair!!! Pardon the use of multiple exclamation points, but pastel footwear calls for a celebration. The brand used their show to introduce their newest bag style (like the del Rey one last season), but also dressed their signature ones for the show (think floral Alexa and del Rey bags). The poodle? The poodle on the runway was just the cutest cherry on the cake.
LOOK OF THE DAY
Dramatic look for a day of dramatic and fabulous shows. Burgundy, oxblood and all of those bloody red shades are the ultimate trendy colors right now. The contrast with the romper and the statement necklace detail complete the ensemble. For the bag, a neutral one is absolutely needed since there’s already so much going on with the look.
- Jacquard romper, ASOS
- Tuxedo blazer, HAIDER ACKERMANN
- Teal belt, SEMI COUTURE
- Burgundy pumps, ZARA
- Nude bag, YSL
- Eagle necklace, ZARA
- Golden ring, TOPSHOP
- nail polish, TOM FORD
For all the details on today’s look, go to FASHIOLISTA
There you go! We are officially halfway through with our Fashion Week posts. Hang in there folks!
Illustrations: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, Zara, Net-a-porter, Farfetch, Asos, Selfridges, Polyvore
All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (firstname.lastname@example.org) and images must link back to this site