LFW COVERAGE: It’s cool, Acne cool…

Hello from Milan, my sweet readers! I’m finally back from home, in my second home, after two blissful months of vacation. This post has been hanging in the oven for a bit too long, almost ready to overcook. Between packing, catching planes, cleaning a dusty apartment (60 days worth of dust are no joke) and unpacking, life has been a little bit hectic. Naturally, I’m completely behind on my reviews and with other deadlines to meet, I’m barely breathing. Anyway, enough with the nagging. Milan Fashion Week ends today and we are just getting started with London (we’ve still got a long, beautiful and fashionable road to walk together). London has always been the most shocking of them all (in a good way), there’s always new talent, there’s always innovation and there’s always that pinch of boldness we can only get from that rainy and fabulous city. So, without further ado, let the London reviews begin (a bit late).

ANTONIO BERARDI SPRING 2013

The last two collections from Antonio Berardi were among my top 5 from London Fashion Week Spring 2012 and Fall 2012 (of course, Meadham Kirchhoff took the throne on Spring 2012). Maybe I raised the bar too high for this season and it’s not that I didn’t like the show, but it just didn’t drive me crazy. It all started out with geometric panels and layers (maybe I’m the only one, but it kind of reminded me of Stella McCartney AW 2012), escalading into pantsuits and skirt ones, to end in a shiny, dress sequence that to me, was the best part of it all. There were sequins, sheer inserts, graphic cuts and embellishments. But there was a main star, tails, tails were everywhere from dresses to shirts.

The color palette also played an important role in the designer’s exhibition. From the khaki, cream and royal blue combo to hot pink, white and cerulean.The show made a subtle transition from an architectural, graphic sobriety to a shiny and detailed opulence. The meticulous and detailed embellishments we got to see on the last looks were definitely the highlight of the show.

ACNE SPRING 2013

With Acne, one can never expect the ordinary but you can always expect that “cool” factor. Over the seasons, Acne has become one of the favorites among fashion elite and the blogosphere (the pink bag Instagram photos with the “I sinned, I couldn’t help it” are part of the daily dose. Acne has always focused on shapes, on layering and on the art of visual impact. For the Spring 2012 collection, the color palette was vast. It went from bights (poppy red and parrot green) to neutrals (white, khaki, eggshell) and there was even a hint of pastel (the lavender skirt is my favorite piece from the runway). Stripes, pantsuits, vests and blazers, mid length skirts with slits and maxi skirts were among the elements Johnny Johansson used for the collection he named “Wrecking ball”. Everything had that chic, street style vibe, even the buckle gladiators (we are going to be seeing a lot of gladiator next season).

MOSCHINO CHEAP & CHIC

Leave it to Rossella Jardini to produce perky and cute collections, with a lot of swag. Even if that just made me sound like a modern Flavor Flav, that’s the only way to describe them. Between the game of happy shades, the texture contrast and the “comedy” elements she always injects on her collections, the Cheap & Chic show has definitely become one that’s easy and fun to watch (and review). The inspiration was clear as glass: the groovy ’60s (think Austin Powers, think Scooby Doo’s mystery machine van). Pantsuits, tops with floral appliqué, cropped jumpers and bustiers, dip-dye dresses paired with sneakers, bold and eye-catching prints and sheer, a lot of sheer. The comedy element we were talking about above? It was all about the pineapple! Cute, cute, cute, as a button cute, that’s all I have to say!

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

With last season’s army parade and this season’s collection, the “Walk like an Egyptian” fiasco from Spring 2012 has definitely been forgotten. If I may say, this is one of the most delightful shows from this Fashion Week edition. Everything from the color palette (neutrals and metallics) to the shapes and the layering, was so perfect (and the most exciting thing of it all, those silvery trousers will be affordable to us mortals). Sheer panels played an important role on this ’90s inspired show, so did oversize jackets, blazers and vests. It was all so clean and sharp. For a girl who is all about more is more, Topshop’s minimalism definitely won me over. I’ll take two of everything, please!

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

Yeah, maybe his Summer collection for H&M didn’t get the same buzz as Lanvin or Versace, but that’s when Matthew Williamson caught my eye and won my admiration. It’s not only about his shapes, his colors and the attention he pays to details, it’s about craftmanship in its purest form. With a clear ethnic inspiration, Williamson presented some serious (and dramatic) prints, so lively that the pink flowers on those cropped trousers seemed almost real.

But the prints were not the only thing worth mentioning on his catwalk, there were embellishments (his signature ones), flawless tailoring, colorful dip-dye, sheer sleeves and gown, beautiful, ethereal gowns. The accessories included, long, tasseled necklaces, ankle strap wedges and detailed sandals (I’ve got my eye set on those gold ones). Overall, a colorful delight! Matthew Williamson, it’s always a pleasure.

LOOK OF THE DAY

On my defense, it was still sunny when this happened. This look is definitely a reflection of my personal style, I love to look like a walking sorbet. This wonderful dress from Three Floor was an ASOS discovery and to be honest, love at first sight! The YSL clutch and the Carven shoes just add more cuteness to it all!

For all the details on today’s look, go to FASHIOLISTA

One more down, plenty more to go! It Paris time right now, the dramatic closing to a fabulous Fashion Week. Hang in there!

Sweet kisses…

llustration: Ana Sofia Alanis
Image sources: style.com, ASOS, Net-a-porter, Forever 21, Piperlime, Essie
 

All texts, illustrations and collages are made by me, it’s forbidden to re-post without previous request (sweetnrawme@gmail.com) and images must link back to this site

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