It’s Sunday and instead of my relaxing routine, I find myself drowning in a sea of runway reviews, missed deadlines, photos and more. The good news is, I just went to the supermarket (ran out of coffee and milk, I die without them) wearing nothing than a thin, trench coat! Milano is finally accepting the fact that Spring is about to start and there’s nothing that stupid Winter can do about it. Anyway, as I told you yesterday, our lovely New York rendezvouz is now history. We find ourselves (a little late) in the beautiful city of London and what an opening line-up have I put up together for you, my sweet readers: Eye-popping Holly Fulton, drama king Giles, print clasher Erdem and my personal favorite, the fabulous Antonio Berardi. So, let the games begin!
Leave it to Acne to keep the cool and simple with a twist of random. The Swedish brand is all about the natural swag and this collection is proof of it. This collection was all about shape distortion, Johnny Johansson took his inspiration in three artists. With one quick look at the works of André Kertész or Hans Bellmer, you can absolutely see the influence on the designer’s garments. With ‘Blue Monday’ playing on the back, Johansson sent out the runway a total of 35 looks, each an every one of them with an interesting construction and a beautiful color clash. The shoes are definitely something to remember, so are the volumes and proportions and that two-tone blazer (last image). Simply fabulous!
I’ve always had a soft spot for Antonio Berardi and after this show, it has become massive and softer. First of all, his color palette. It was so diverse but at the same time, it had a clear continuity. The transition from the gray, to the red, to the blush, to the aquamarine and so on, was so subtle and beautiful. Models looked perfectly put together in those precisely tailored numbers Berardi sent out the runway. Everything was sharply cut but never straight, just look at the curved panels and uneven pleats.
The collection was inspired by artist Giacomo Serpotta, hence the beautiful and sculptural silhouettes. Textures played a very important part on Berardi’s show, fur made a brief appearance, there was also shiny, glossy and those teal shoes, OH, THOSE TEAL SHOES! To me, it was all so beautiful, although I wasn’t crazy about his last gown. But hey, getting right 42 out of 43 is pretty damn good.
From the opening to the closing, Giles runways are always packed with drama. This season’s catwalk was no exception. Last year he gave us those monumental, bird headpieces, this time is was all about a dark romance and edgy glamour. The show opened up with a startling mask made by Stephen Jones (same mind behind the gorgeous swans) paired up with a sharp tuxedo number. From the first dark look, Deacon’s collection escalated into artistic and femenine shapes.
Color palette was mainly neutral and textures played a major role in the whole dramatic exhibition. Lengths went from mid and mullets to long with movement. The main detail worth mentioning: the burnt-like, laser cut stains that worked as prints on some of his final dresses. It was chaos, beautiful chaos.
If you thought the mash-up was a Spring trend, think again because Erdem has taken it to a whole new level for Fall 2012. After the soft floral hit from last season, the brand decided to maintain the theme but with a very different and darker take on it. With a front row that included editorial legends, Anna Wintour and Franca Sozzani, the Erdem show was definitely the place to be. The color palette included bold colors such as fuchsia and chartreuse in beautiful laces and painted prints. As seen in most of this season’s fashion shows, the length was midi (it was almost all dresses and skirts, a few trouser looks made an appearance). My love for ERDEM grows and grows with each season, just like their powerful and beautiful prints.
It’s gonna be a flashy and bright Winter for Holly Fulton, also one filled with graphic prints and textures. Miss Fulton’s show was packed with sharp tailoring and simple shapes. Fitted dresses and pencil skirts were the main element one the runway and a lot of leg flashing. In a sea of midi lengths, she managed to give us a few mini ones, thank God. The high notes: the almost baroque black number, the Versacesque jacket/top/skirt flashy combos and the oversized pink blazer, I sure love them all.
London calls for a laid-back look, and this is what I came up with. I chose a pair of yellow leggings with a liquid finish from ASOS. I paired them up with a plaid shirt with an ombre effect from ZARA. Over it, I threw on a navy v-neck jumper from CLOSED. For more contrast, poppy red platform shoes from NASTY GAL.
For the bag, a bright green City Balenciaga, a classic in a flashy color. Accessories are little bit on the edge, a pack of tribal bracelets, a claw golden ring and a skull one (all three from ASOS). Last but not least, Dior Vernis in Blue Label for your nails.
There you go! Better late than ever, right? 6 down, a lot more to go. London is on fire, Milan and Paris are on the pits, ready to get their engines started.
For all the details on today’s look, go to FASHIOLISTA.
Illustrations: Ana Sofía Alanis
All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…