NYFW COVERAGE: Ralph’s Dapper Girls

While MFW is happening right now (and looking more fabulous than ever), I have the last delivery from New York. Runway after runway, it was an outstanding display of fashion. It was rather challenging to narrow it down to six shows to review. This is how I did it: Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein were a no-brainer, Ohne Titel is definitely one to watch, Jill Stuart is a personal favorite and Milly, well Milly’s collection was so damn chic. Without further ado, let’s get this party started (flashback to Korn’s song, not Pink’s).

OHNE TITEL

It was the opening look that killed me, and almost every fashion editor/blogger/fashionista out there, optical illusions gone wild with style. I didn’t have the pleasure of meeting the beautiful creations of Flora Gill and Alexa Adams before, now that I have met them, I love them to death. The color palette and combinations were basic but beautiful: black, white, cobalt blue and a touch of ice gray. The weaving technique and patterns were beyond fabulous, after all, the show was inspired by the sculptures of artist Sheila Hicks. But the knits were not all there was in store, silk, bicolor pleats, fur, and even sheer sleeves were thrown into the mix as well.

CALVIN KLEIN

Signor Francisco Costa sure does know what he is doing and how Calvin Klein’s signature minimalism should be done. The designer sent out the runway a wide range of hour-glass shaped garments, the cinched waist was a key element to this lovely collection. Every single piece was collarless with a round neckline and the lengths were all midi. Costa managed to show sexy but without much skin flashing.

Aside from classic black, ivory and a rusty green, there were those pretty and eye-popping shades of red (the cinched coat on the first image above is probably the best piece on the whole collection). The show also had a wide variety of textures: sheer inserts, vintage looking jacquard, leather and wool. For accessories and beauty, it all came down to a classic black pump, metallic and minimal belts, sleek, pulled back hair and natural makeup.

RALPH LAUREN

It seems that Mr. Lauren is kind of hooked up on the whole Victor/Victoria, masculine/femenine vibe. Last season it was all about soft colors and The Great Gatsby, this one is Downton Abbey all the way. It was a game between dapper silhouettes and glamorous shapes. Colours went from earthy tones, to shiny black and lavish gold. The American designer added a touch of spice to some of his classic looks with leopard accents, a fiery red, fur collar and the dreamy, metallic painted ostrich feathers he paired up with a flowy, silk gown.

As usual, towards the end of the show, along came the red carpet dresses. Without a doubt, we will be seeing one of this numbers on a Hollywood awards show (let me remind you that the Oscars are to be held this Sunday). For the accessories, cloches will be big next season and pocket watches. Nothing goes better with a double-breasted jacket than a good old pocket watch (I can’t wait to get mine). Whether you are more of a Victor or a Victoria, Ralph Lauren has something to offer to both worlds.

MILLY

Everybody loves Parisian chic and after Milly’s runway, that love has grown for sure. It was a show in which the volume played the main role, accompanied by electric hues, texture clash and pretty details. The collection’s name was ‘Future Perfect’, hence the use of hi-tech materials and elaborate structures. Michelle Smith left the whole darkness behind, and focused on a more vibrant and colorful palette. It was beautiful, it was flirty but above all, it was fun!

JILL STUART

As I said on the opening paragraph of this post, Jill Stuart has always been a personal favorite. I love it how everything is always chic and easy. For Spring, the designer gave us a pastel world with lightweight fabrics and garments with so much movement. This time, Stuart entered into a darker zone. It was all a bit dramatic and with a retro take on it.

Inspired by nonchalant icons like PJ Harvey, the designer sent out the runway a mix of lace, berry leather, unusual floral prints and lots of sheer. Platform booties and ankle-strap sandals complimented Jill Stuart’s stylish, starlet looks. The key elements: the prints, the golden embroidery, the lace inserts and the cool chick vibe.

REEM ACRA

Want to shine? Want lavish? Want over the top? Then Reem Acra is your thing. From start to finish, the designer gave all sequin, or texture, or embroidery and more. From sexy trouser looks, to rockin’ mini dresses and for the grand finale, flashy red carpet gowns, just the way Hollywood likes them. Contrasting with a glossy, firey red runway, the show made the statement intended: total power, total glamour.

LOOK OF THE DAY

I wanted a cute ensemble for this one. I chose a cute playsuit from TOPSHOP in teal. Since the piece is too basic, I used it over a printed blouse with a scalloped collar from ASOS. The neckline allows the shirt’s collar to pop out as if they were one garment. For the cold, a camel cape from Nasty Gal. This baby is the queen of all capes. To add another fun detail, cinch it with a coffee skinny belt from ASOS. For the legs and the shoes, a pair of thigh-high socks in ice gray and the most resourceful heels a girl can have (get them ASAP if you don’t have them already inside your closet), ASOS Bitten in tan.

For more playfulness, a Reed Krakoff’s yellow ‘Gym Bag’. For the arm candy, a tortoiseshell watch from Michael Kors, a twisted, golden bangle from Erin Wasson and a beaded bracelet with skull detail from Orelia. The final touch: Essie’s Berry Naughty.

All the details on today’s look can be found at FASHIOLISTA.

We say bye, bye New York and hello London! From tomorrow, all the juicy and dirty details on London Fashion Week. I can’t wait to review my favorite pair, Meadham Kirchhoff!

Sweet kisses…

Illustrations: Ana Sofía Alanis
Photos: style.com

All texts are written by me, PLAGIARISM is not cool…

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